From choosing the right textures to knowing when to stop blending, celebrity makeup artist and beauty entrepreneur Sandhya Shekar reveals her tips for eyes that smoulder softly
There’s a reason beauty entrepreneur and makeup artist Sandhya Shekar is the go-to for everything from red-carpet radiance to the perfect brown smoky eye on Bollywood’s most photographed faces. Having created some of the most memorable beauty looks for Deepika Padukone, Anushka Sharma and Katrina Kaif, among others, Shekar’s approach is equal parts technique and intuition, rooted in the belief that makeup should enhance, not overpower.
At a masterclass hosted as part of the Vogue Beauty & Wellness Honours 2025, in partnership with Tira, Shekar chose to spotlight one of the most deceptively difficult eye looks: the brown smoky eye. Often reduced to muddy pigments or overly graphic shapes, it’s a technique that demands subtlety, smart layering and a deep understanding of face structure—skills Shekar brings in spades.
The founder of Mokae Beauty doesn’t believe in black smoky eyes, at least not for real life. “Stop doing black smoky eyes,” she said, to a roomful of knowing laughs. “Unless it’s for a theme shoot or fashion editorial, it’s very easy to get wrong.” Black eyeshadow is hard to blend, easy to overdo, and often ends up looking too harsh. “It can be ageing and make the eye look smaller. Browns are more flattering on Indian skin; they give you warmth, richness and so many ways to build drama without overpowering your face.”
What followed wasn’t just a step-by-step tutorial, but a beauty philosophy in motion: one that favours softness over drama, richness over contrast and skin that still looks like skin. Below, her most essential tips on how to nail the brown smokey eye, and make it look expensive, wearable, and completely your own.
#1 Start with a primer and skip the concealer
Most of us reach for concealer when priming our lids, but Shekar takes a different approach. “When I’m working on Indian skin, I love using a colourless primer. It helps keep the makeup looking as natural as possible,” she explains.
“With concealer, the skin gets very dry, the moisture gets sucked out, and it adds five years,” she says. A sheer primer that grips pigment without dulling the skin’s natural undertone is the way to go, according to Shekar. “We don’t have to do what we did 10 years ago. Makeup tech has advanced. We don’t need to use concealer everywhere anymore.”
#2 Pencil first, powder next, cream to finish
A rich, brown smoky eye isn’t about pigment, it’s about layers. Shekar begins with a dark brown pencil smudged across the lid to create depth. Then comes a soft, earthy powder to diffuse the lines, followed by a tap of cream or liquid pigment to add sheen.
“Layering creates mystery. Even if I’m doing a simple eye look, I’ll layer multiple textures so it doesn’t look flat or chalky…it just makes the whole look feel expensive.”
She likens the final effect to a luxe glaze: less sparkle, more sheen and always dimensional.
#3 Softer eyes = fresher face
In Shekar’s words: “Anything that’s stark—whether it’s a black shadow or a harsh liner—tends to age the face unless it’s being done in a very fashion-forward, intentional way.” Instead, she advocates for blending with a buffing brush, keeping edges blurred and embracing imperfection.
“Even tightlining—just that little step—can lift the eye without looking like a full kajal moment,” she says, adding, “The finish matters more than the shape. Diffuse, soften, and your face will thank you.”
#4 Match your technique to your eye shape
“I always ask myself: what do I want to create with this eye? Do I want to elongate? Add depth? That’s where your artistry starts.”
The secret to a great brown smoky eye isn’t copying what you saw on YouTube. It’s looking in the mirror and knowing what you’re working with. “For smaller eyes, skip the transition shade. Just take one colour slightly above the crease, especially when your eyes are open. It helps lift the eye without crowding it,” she said.
“For hooded eyes, lift the fold when doing liner, draw your flick, then drop the lid and connect it.”
#5 Fingers are underrated tools
“I use brushes on others, but on myself? Fingers all the way.” While she used brushes on the model for hygiene purposes, Shekar is all for using your fingers to apply makeup. “Your fingers warm the product, so creams apply better and melt into the skin,” she said.
“It gives you more control, especially when you’re doing your own face.”
#6 Tightline, mascara and a hint of false lashes
The final finesse steps can make or break the look. “Tightlining makes a huge difference to the finish. A lot of people skip it, but it pulls everything together.”
She also loves finishing with mascara and a few individual lashes, especially on the outer corners for lift. “Full falsies can feel too heavy. With individual ones, you don’t even feel them and they won’t lift off halfway through the night.”
