It’s that time of the year again. As we skip into a brand new season, here’s everything you need to do to keep your skin healthy and glowing
September: Otherwise known as the fashion world’s January, the onset of autumn, and a whole new academic year. It resonates in the beauty world, too. With every new beginning, whether it’s a new season or job, comes a rethink in routine and, just like we swap our gauzy summer linen for thick, woollen jumpers, so too should we look to reinvent our skincare routines, curating them specifically for the season we are in.
New statistics from image-based social media site, Pinterest, have shown that nearly a quarter of its users are searching for new skincare routine inspiration, for both morning and night. It’s no wonder, really, since a hot summer has bestowed its mark upon our face—pigmentation from excessive tanning, travel-induced dehydration, and inflammation from one too many mojito—and the sudden plummeting of temperature can, quite drastically, impact the way our skin performs, looks and feels.
“Most commonly seen in the autumn months is the impairment and fragility of the skin barrier which can manifest as symptoms of dryness, sensitivity and a lacklustre look,” says founder of Pfeffer Sal, Andrea Pfeffer. “Your barrier is like a raincoat – designed to keep things from reaching your body.” When temperatures suddenly change and in windy and cold weather, our barriers become damaged and let the metaphorical ‘rain’ – pollution and other external aggravators – deeper into the skin, causing inflammation, sensitivity and redness.
So how do we reinvent our routines to cater to this change in environment? The key rule is to keep things simple: “In the summer, we tend to use less product because we naturally have a healthy glow. Avoid overwhelming skin and keep your routine as simple as possible” says aesthetic doctor, Dr Maryam Zamani. Look no further for the simple skin switch-ups to make ahead of the autumn season:
Cleansing consistently is key
Fundamental to keep skin clean and free of accumulated dirt, cleansing morning and night is one element of your routine that doesn’t need to be reinvented. “Skin’s natural cell turnover process creates debris on the upper layers which need to be removed before applying any other products, as this can affect the efficacy of future key ingredients penetrating the skin,” says Pfeffer. “Plus the mechanical action of cleansing also increases the blood flow and aids elimination of toxins so don’t rush it.”
Milk or cream cleansers are gentle enough to be used all year round so don’t need to be switched out for other formulas. However, drier skins can benefit from occasionally using more sumptuous balms or oils to help replace lipids lost and reduce flakiness. As with heating, hot water is not your friend – you should aim to wash skin with lukewarm water, rather than hot.
Hydrate the easy way
Exposure to central heating and harsh, bracing winds equally can lead to skin that really isn’t happy. For that, hydration can help. “Hyaluronic acid is a key player,” says Pfeffer. “Its effects are often compared to turning a raising into a grape when increasing water content.” Use a hyaluronic acid serum, like Niod’s Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex or Sarah Chapman’s Skinesis Intense Hydrating Booster, morning and night, straight after cleansing.
Rebuild your barrier with moisturiser
To help renew and reinforce a damaged skin barrier, look to ceramides and lipids, often found in moisturisers: “They will help prevent moisture loss and retain hydration,” says Zamani. Using a moisturiser like CeraVe’s Smoothing Cream or Drunk Elephant’s Lala Retro Whipped Cream over a hyaluronic acid serum creates a layer over the skin and stops water escaping, making them extra important when the temperatures drop.
“Oilier and acne prone skin types might want to use a light moisturiser or oil like jojoba that they may not have needed in summer. They’ll keep skin supple but overall should avoid thicker products that may clog or contribute to oiliness,” advises Pfeffer. Meanwhile, dry skins should look for nutrient rich oils to impart extra nourishment, especially at night.
Autumn exfoliation 101
Post-summer, skin may need a peel, a treatment that utilises a combination of exfoliating acids to keep it looking fresh and radiant. This isn’t everyday exfoliation and while they can be performed in-clinic, new formulas mean you can get clinical grade results at home. Take Dr Dennis Gross’ Professional Grade Resurfacing Liquid Peel, a blend of alpha hydroxy acids like lactic and glycolic, to help dissolve the glue that holds skin-dulling dead skin cells on skin’s surface.
Day to day, exfoliate in the evening and avoid physical scrubs; instead opt for chemical exfoliants like the aforementioned AHAs: “Scrubs can create micro tears in the skin that can further impair the skin barrier and create more inflammation,” says Pfeffer. “Lactic acid is a great chemical exfoliant as it hydrates at the same time as exfoliating.” Omorovicza’s Acid Fix contains lactic alongside glycolic and salicylic to help lift pigmentation and revive a glow that may have been lost in the seasonal switch.
But be warned: a common misconception during autumn days when skin is far flakier than its sunnier self is that exfoliation will help clear it. Actually, it’ll exacerbate it: “Gentle exfoliation combined with the right, rebuilding products is the best way forward.”
Start using retinol
While a lack of sun might not be good news for your spirit, it is good news for your face. Retinol (or vitamin A) makes the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s best deployed in cooler months and, in summer, should be used unfailingly with an SPF: “It is fantastic at increasing cell turnover, regulating oil flow and improving the appearance of pigmentation,” says Pfeffer. “Start slow to allow your skin to build up a tolerance and work up to using every night.”
Wear SPF all year round
“The biggest mistake you can make it not wearing SPF longer than summer,” points out Pfeffer. Actually, our skin can be damaged by UV rays all year round so it’s one product that you never need swap out. Pfeffer recommends mineral-based SPF for its lightness, breathability, ocean-friendliness and ease of use – it sits really well under make-up.
Eat seasonally
Treating the outside of skin is all very well, but it’s important to complement an autumnal skin routine with a nutritional and seasonal diet. “Autumn is the harvest season and we are incredibly lucky to have fresh, nutrient rich produce available, so make the most of it,” says Pfeffer. She recommends eating lots of squashes, like butternut and pumpkin, that are rich in beta-carotene to aid cell renewal, normal skin function and collagen production.
Also worth ingesting is a great probiotic, like Symprove’s Probiotic drink, to improve gut health for clearer skin, and an omega supplement to ‘bubblewrap’ cells and keep moisture locked in.
So, while the autumn months can feel like a mountain to climb, at least there’s one excuse to buy new skincare…
