Don’t let a greasy T-zone get in the way of your makeup routine
Applying foundation, concealer, contour and blush in the AM can be a real process, considering the amount of time, effort and patience it takes. So if your base is slipping off, melting and creasing by noon, it can get annoying. While this is true for all skin types, those with oily skin types have it even harder—makeup emulsifies with the natural oils more quickly, leaving you with a messy and sticky look. We spoke to celebrity makeup artists Daniel Bauer and Gianluca Casu to get their advice on everything oily skin types can do to ensure smooth application and a long-lasting makeup look.
Switch up your skincare
The path to a good makeup look starts much before you apply your foundation. Prepping your skin well provides a clean canvas that’ll take to makeup application better. It’s best to start by cleansing and exfoliating skin, which can help you control any excess sebum and reduce the appearance of pores. “If you think oily skin gives you a free pass when it comes to moisturising, you’re wrong,” says Bauer. Even the oiliest of skin needs hydration to prevent sebum glands from going into overdrive to compensate. A gel-based lotion or moisturiser will hydrate the skin without leaving it slick or greasy. You should also try to minimise the number of products you use. Multi-tasking skincare (like a priming moisturiser with SPF) can prevent the pilling that happens from layering too much product.
To prime or not to prime
Makeup artists are usually divided over the need for primer. “Using a primer will definitely help if you have large pores to fill, but it can sometimes be a little bit too much makeup to be putting on. A primer is 95 per cent just a moisturiser,” says Bauer. Casu isn’t the biggest fan either, but he keeps a primer on hand to mattify extremely oily patches and make the base makeup stick. “I apply it with a foundation brush, blending it from the centre of the face to the sides,” he says. Want to use primer but don’t want to slather it everywhere? You can spot prime areas that need it most—zits, the T-zone and parts of the face you’re more likely to touch often.
Apply an even base
It’s essential that you pick the right foundation for your skin type. “For oily skin, you can pick between a powder (which should be applied with a damp sponge) and a mattifying liquid foundation,” says Casu. Even tinted moisturisers with a more gel-like consistency work—they won’t slip off and leave streaks on your face. If you only need to cover up a certain area (like pimples or dark circles), use a creamy, thick concealer with a tacky consistency to spot conceal wherever you need to. Makeup artists also suggest applying foundation with a stippling brush, in quick motions that don’t drag the product around. Sheer coverage can prevent your makeup from looking thick and too layered on.
Choose formulas wisely
You need to keep your skin type in mind when picking the rest of your makeup products too. Love the dewy skin trend? Both makeup artists warn that it might start to look greasy after an hour or two of wear. Casu suggests steering clear of the wet look and extremely shiny highlighters, choosing matte colours to define the face instead. Cream and liquid consistencies work better on an oilier face, as powder can emulsify with the natural oil, leaving your face looking messy and streaky. Jelly or lightweight balms, especially for blush and contour products, can sink into the skin more easily than their powdery counterparts.
For the eyes, primer is actually non-negotiable. It can prevent the slip-slide of concealer, mascara and eyeshadow in the area. You can also try the sandbagging technique to sop up the grease—use a sponge to cake on loose powder over makeup (you’ll need more than you think), focusing on the areas underneath the eyes and around the lips. Let the powder set, absorbing oils from the skin in the process, and then brush the excess off with a fluffy brush.
Set it right
Most people use a setting spray after makeup, but Bauer has a pro tip up his sleeve to make the base foundation last longer. “I find that for oilier skin, applying a setting spray before the base helps the foundation sit in place much longer. This also hydrates your face and removes any excess oils,” he reveals. On the other hand, Casu prefers to use powder to set base makeup. “Choose a soft and transparent powder (Chanel or Makeup Forever HD powder are good options), and use a small brush to touch-up your nose, forehead and the centre parts of your cheeks,” he explains.
