Not aiming for vampy but still want to wear dark lipstick? Here’s how.
It’s tempting to reach for the “my lips but better” lipstick day in and day out, but swiping on a bold, dark lipstick can elicit a surprising sort of energy and surge of confidence. These inky shades are also very “of the season,” especially as spring and summer’s “clean girl” fades in the rearview mirror while a moodier palette comes into focus.
“With the colder temperatures come the luscious, darker hues, especially in lip shades, that exude an empowering sense of rebelliousness,” says makeup artist Sam Kyle, head of creative development and design at Mirabella Beauty. “Dark lips are trending hard this season, and although they may seem intimidating, anyone can pull off a dark lip shade without looking vampy or goth.”
The key is pairing it with other makeup elements that help soften the impact, and using application techniques for a flawless finish. We asked professional makeup artists for advice on how to wear dark lipstick in a sophisticated way—here are their best tips.
How to Wear Dark Lipstick Casually
There’s a time and place for a goth vibe, but sometimes you just want to casually wear dark lipstick. Follow these makeup artist pro tips on wearing a highly dramatic dark lip color.
1. Find the Right Shade for You
In the same way not every red is going to flatter you or go through countless nude lip hues to find your perfect match, it’s important to find the right shade of dark lipstick for your complexion. Kyle says, “When shopping for the perfect shade, I like to recommend using your skin’s undertone as a guide,” Kyle says.
- Warm: Shades with a blue base are ideal.
- Neutral: Rules don’t really apply, so collect them all.
- Cool: Opt for a dark lipstick color with a red hue
And by the way—Kyle says that there’s no such thing as “being too fair” for a dark lip color. These dark shades can flatter any skin tone.
2. Keep Makeup Soft and Neutral
To avoid toeing the vampy line, keep the rest of your makeup soft and neutral while your dark lip steals the show.
“A fresh-faced complexion can help the final look feel the most flattering without giving off goth vibes,” explains celebrity makeup artist Jaleesa Jaikaran. “I love doing lots of mascara or a wispy lash.” A soft pink or neutral blush and low key eye makeup can complete the look.
3. Add a Touch of Lighter Lip Color
If the dark lip feels too bold to you, consider lightening the effect ever-so-slightly. Drita Paljevic, head makeup artist for Kevyn Aucoin, says, “After applying your dark lipstick, apply a lighter lipstick in the center of your lips and tap with your fingers to blend. This softens your overall look.”
Jaikaran adds that blending and blotting your lips can also help soften the look without compromising what was applied.
4. Brush and Define Your Brows
This is a good makeup tip no matter what look you’re going for, but it’s especially important when showcasing a dark lipstick. “Having brows that are cleaned up can help the focus remain solely on the lips,” explains Jaikaran.
5. Consider the Rest of Your Look
Your hair, clothes, and even accessory choices matter when the end goal is to wear a dark lipstick without looking vampy. Similar to keeping things clean and classic with the rest of your makeup, opt for a low key outfit and accessorize it sparingly. Think jeans with a crisp top, a slinky slip dress in a subdued hue, a well-fitted black jumpsuit, or a jewel-toned sweater or dress.
Pro Tips on Applying Dark Lipstick
Proper application is crucial when wearing dark lipstick, as these saturated pigments have a tendency to highlight chapped lips, look patchy, and migrate into lip lines.
- Exfoliate & Moisturize Your Lips: “It’s important to exfoliate and moisturize lips properly to ensure lips are smooth and prepped for application,” Kyle says. This helps avoid patchiness and prevents showcasing dry bits.
- Line Your Lips: Paljevic says to line your lips perfectly with a matching lip liner that won’t bleed. “If yours tends to bleed, take a concealer brush with a small amount of concealer and set it with setting powder afterward,” she advises.
- Use a Lip Brush: Applying darker lip shades from their applicator can be tricky and intimidating. Kyle recommends investing in a good lip brush to make the application a much smoother and easier process.
- Start at the Center First: “Start by applying the shade to the center of the lips and blend outwards to ensure a lighter finish that follows the lips’ natural shape,” Kyle says. “Darker lip shades can make the mouth appear smaller, so emphasizing the outline of the lips after the shade application can troubleshoot this issue while also creating a clean finish.”
